FAQ

Denim goes through nine main stages:
1. Cotton → 2. Spinning → 3. Warping → 4. Dyeing → 5. Sizing → 6. Weaving → 7. Finishing → 8. Inspection → 9. Shipping.
Rope dyeing (indigo) and weaving (shuttle loom vs. high-speed loom) are the two stages that most influence the fabric’s hand feel and fading character.

Denim woven on shuttle looms, with a naturally finished “self-edge” on both sides of the fabric. The narrow width (~76 cm) and slower production speed place less tension on the yarn, giving a softer, fuller hand and characteristic uneven fading over time.

Weight per square yard (~91.4 cm × 91.4 cm).
Rough guide: 6–8 oz (shirting), 10–12 oz (standard jeans), 13–15 oz (vintage reproductions), 16 oz and heavier (heavyweight). Hand feel varies widely even at the same weight depending on yarn and finishing, so we recommend requesting a swatch before confirming specs.

Ring spun: traditional method — smoother, more lustrous yarn, pronounced vertical fading.
Open-end: faster and lower cost — drier, more textured hand with a flatter, more uniform fade.
Neither is “better”; choice depends on the product’s intended character.

Right-hand twill: classic Levi’s style, crisper hand.
Left-hand twill: Lee tradition, softer feel.
Broken twill: alternating direction (Wrangler), resists leg-twist.
Chosen based on the target hand feel and fading behaviour.

Rope dyeing: yarn bundled into ropes and repeatedly dipped in indigo — produces the white-core effect that gives premium denim its signature fade.
Slasher dyeing: yarn run flat through the dye bath — higher throughput, gentler fading.
The dye penetration differs, which changes how the fabric ages.

Sanforized: residual shrinkage is held to 1–3%.
Unsanforized: shrinks 5–10% on first wash — common for vintage reproductions where “shrink to your body” is part of the appeal.
Shrinkage must be measured and reflected in patterning.

Indigo creates the blue of denim. Virtually all mass-produced denim uses synthetic indigo. Indigo has low affinity for fibre, which is precisely what creates the characteristic fading — friction removes the surface dye and reveals the white core, producing whiskers, honeycombs and other wear patterns.

These areas have a long history of cotton cultivation and weaving. Spinning, weaving and garment-making know-how built up over generations transitioned naturally into denim production. Kojima is the birthplace of Japanese jeans; Ibara brings deep indigo-dyeing heritage (Bingo-gasuri); Fukuyama hosts major denim mills. Together they form a tightly integrated cluster serving high-end brands worldwide.

Japanese denim is known for shuttle-loom precision, rope dyeing expertise and meticulous finishing. That said, strong mills exist in many countries; the right choice depends on application, budget and desired character.

Japanese denim is our core, alongside casual woven fabrics more broadly — selvedge, stretch, organic and more. We also develop custom/original fabrics on request.

No — ALLBLUE is a B2B wholesaler and does not sell to individuals or in retail quantities. We welcome inquiries from apparel brands, manufacturers, sewing factories, designers and trading companies.

Yes, for business accounts. Please contact us with the type of fabric or application you have in mind, and we will send samples accordingly.

Overseas customers: we can ship swatches on your own DHL or FedEx account — just provide your account number and delivery address. This avoids prepayment and customs handling on our end.

These depend on specification and mill availability. Please contact us with your requirements.

Yes — custom fabric development is one of our core businesses. Yarn, dyeing, weave structure and finishing can all be tailored. Please contact us to discuss.

Typical flow: brief → proposal → spec confirmation → production → inspection & delivery. We can start from a rough concept. For small lots, options such as re-using in-stock yarns or modifying an existing base fabric help control cost.

Yes — organic cotton, recycled-cotton blends and similar options are available. We hold GOTS certification. Please contact us for details.

Small-lot production to limit overrun, re-use of offcuts and general mottainai (waste-not) thinking guide our operations.

Terms vary by project. Wholesale (B2B) only.

Overseas shipping: when using DHL or FedEx, please provide your own account number — we will ship on your account. Large orders may be routed through trading companies. Please contact us.

We exhibit at domestic and international shows. Please contact us for the current schedule.