The twill direction fundamentally affects denim’s character.
Right-Hand Twill
The most common weave (~95%), associated with Levi’s. Produces a firm hand feel and leg twist when washed.
Left-Hand Twill
Traditionally used by Lee. Softer hand feel compared to RHT.
Broken Twill
Developed by Wrangler in 1964 to eliminate leg twist. Alternating twill directions create a stable, flat surface.
Design Implications
Twill choice affects pattern making, silhouette stability, and aging behavior. A significant factor in fabric selection.
Swatch requests available via our fabric catalog.